Saturday, 08 August, 2020

Condominium Sliding Doors – How to Get Their Slide Back

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Regular Maintenance
Dental experts tell us that it’s important to brush along the gum line to get rid of debris. The same concept applies for slider door tracks. I recommend an annual “brushing” out of the tracks and cleaning with solvent followed by a finish of silicone lube. Hit the rollers and locking hardware at the same time with a blast of lube.

Why do bad things take place to excellent moving doors? Why do some moving doors to condo decks and outdoor patios run simply great for years then decide they prefer to be opened by an NFL line backer? It helps to understand the technology of their materials, how they are created and they engage with their host building. Glass for moving doors can be single pane in older models or double-glazed with argon gas as a middle insulator versus thermal transfer. Door framing can be aluminum, vinyl, fiberglass, wood of vinyl-clad wood. Metal sliders will typically have a thermal break in between glass and metal frame to minimize thermal conductivity. Various rates of thermal expansion of the glass and the frame can induce twisting in the frame preventing it from riding efficiently in its track. You might find that similar items on one side of your structure are working fine while those in a various thermal exposure on the other side of the building are difficult to open.

The reasons moving doors in condos become tough to open and close are few. Many involve either the rollers at the bottom of the door frame or the alignment of the door in the building. Check for:

Water Entry
Water entry through/ around sliding doors is normally due to insufficient sealing in between the rough opening between the building and the door unit. This shows itself pretty significantly in harsh exposures such as ocean side environments or hi-rise structures where storm wind gusts at the upper floors can drive rain through door sides that are only nominally secured. Preferred practice in these cases is to install flashing to the wall sheathing, cover it with 6″ large strips of plastic flashing material along sides, leading and bottom. Over the plastic flashing place your regular structure wrap. The strip at the top of the opening should overlap the side strip. In such environments we like to see weep holes at the bases of the walls so that any water driving into the door opening and running down this barrier will have quick pathway out.

Rollers can be replaced if they are just too worn to fool around with. This includes lifting out the moving portion of the door to eliminate the old rollers and set up brand-new ones. Check more on how to install vinyl siding around windows by visiting the website. If there seem just a build-up of poor alignments and broken parts it may be better to merely change the door with a new unit. Replacement can be included in your capital reserve fund plan.

· Worn roller wheels from running over collected grit in the track
· Vertical settlement of the building wall in which door is installed. Attempt compensating for this by utilizing the two adjustment screws at the door bottom. You can raise or drop opposing rollers so that the door runs parallel to the track.

For issues at the door sides:
· Unlock about 2 inches and check the space between the door frame and the door jamb. It should be uniform when measured from top to bottom.
· You might require to shim in between jamb and building to get both plumb.